← Chapter 9 · Dolci

Torta della Nonna

The name simply means grandmother's cake, which in this family causes a minor annual argument over whose grandmother it's actually referring to, since more than one of them made a version of this.

Torta della Nonna

Ingredients

  • For the pastry: 300g flour
  • 150g cold butter, cubed
  • 120g sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • A pinch of salt
  • For the pastry cream: 500ml whole milk
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 100g sugar
  • 40g cornstarch
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 30g pine nuts
  • Powdered sugar, to finish

Serves 8.

Cookware Required

  • una tortiera (a tart pan)
  • una frusta (a whisk)

Method

Combine the flour, sugar, salt, and lemon zest for the pastry. Cut in the cold butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs, then mix in the egg yolks just until the dough comes together -- stop as soon as it does, since overworking it here makes for a tough crust rather than a tender one. Wrap, and chill for thirty minutes.

For the pastry cream, warm the milk with the lemon zest until steaming. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until pale, then whisk in the cornstarch. Gradually whisk the warm milk into the egg mixture, then return everything to the pan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until thickened, a few minutes. Strain into a bowl, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming, and let it cool completely.

Roll two-thirds of the dough, and line a tart pan with it. Spread the cooled pastry cream evenly inside. Roll the remaining dough for the top -- a simple full lid, or strips arranged in a lattice, whichever you prefer -- and cover, trimming and sealing the edges. Scatter the pine nuts over the top.

Bake at 180°C (350°F) for thirty-five to forty minutes, until deeply golden. Cool completely before slicing, and dust with powdered sugar just before serving.

Quando Va Storto

If the bottom crust turns out soggy, the pastry cream wasn't fully cooled before filling, or the tart didn't get enough time in the oven to properly set the base. If the pastry cream comes out lumpy instead of silky, the warm milk was added to the eggs too quickly, or the mixture wasn't whisked constantly while it thickened on the stove. And if the crust turns out tough rather than tender, the butter was too warm when it was cut into the flour, or the dough was overworked once the egg yolks went in -- handle it as little as you can manage.